Auto A/c Repair & Heat Service near Old Westbury

A. There’s nothing more frustrating than weak air flow on a hot summer’s day! Unfortunately, there’s no easy diagnosis here; insufficient air flow could stem from a number of possible problems. For example, it might be an instance of mold or mildew building up in the evaporator core. It could also be a loose hose, a bad ventilation fan, or blown seals. A qualified mechanic can isolate the root of your A/C problems.

A. Warm air coming from your A/C is never a good sign. There could be a number of potential factors here, such as a clogged expansion valve; a faulty compressor clutch; a blown fuse; or even leaks within the A/C. The only way to know for sure what’s causing that warm air is to take your car to a qualified inspection for an appraisal.

A. A leak in your A/C is bad news, without question—but what causes it? 

The short answer : age and moisture. Over time, the rubber hoses and seals in your A/C lose elasticity and allow Freon to escape, all while allowing moisture to enter. 

When moisture mixes with your A/C’s refrigerant, it creates a corrosive acid, which destroys your A/C from the inside out. This is definitely something to have analyzed and repaired by a trained mechanic.

If you think your A/C has a leak, there are a couple of methods you can choose to help detect leaks. One option is to use black light-enabled dyes; many refrigerants are mixed with UV dyes, which allow them to show up under a black light. There’s also the “sniffer,” a special device that can zero in on the refrigerant’s chemical compounds and detect possible leaks. Ask your service technician about these options!

Nobody likes an A/C that emanates bad smells! There are a couple of possible causes of A/C odors, the first being dirty, old air in the cabin filter. The second is an evaporator case that’s developed mold, which could point to more systematic problems with your unit.

The cost of an A/C recharge depends on what your vehicle needs after the system is inspected and tested. Some vehicles simply need the system recharged to bring pressure back to specifications, while others have a refrigerant leak / recharge needed situation where the refrigerant level dropped because of a leak that should be identified and addressed. Since pricing can vary by vehicle and by what testing reveals, the most accurate way to understand cost is to start with an A/C inspection that confirms refrigerant level, system pressures, and whether there are signs of leakage.

A/C diagnostics time can vary because the symptom matters. Straightforward concerns like A/C not blowing cold or warm air from vents may be confirmed quickly once pressures, vent temperatures, and basic component operation are checked. Intermittent complaints—like A/C works sometimes or A/C cold then warm—can take longer because the system may need to be tested under the conditions where the problem appears. The goal of A/C diagnostics is to pinpoint the cause (refrigerant, airflow, electrical, or component-related) so the repair is based on evidence, not guesswork.

If you’re searching refrigerant leak / recharge needed, it’s often because the A/C system performance faded over time and you suspect it’s low on refrigerant. A recharge restores refrigerant pressure to specification, but since automotive A/C systems are sealed, refrigerant typically doesn’t disappear without a reason. That’s why a recharge is often paired with leak-check steps (such as adding dye, as noted on your page) to help identify whether there’s an active leak that should be repaired. If the system is low again after being recharged, that strongly points toward a leak or another issue that needs A/C repair, not repeated recharging.

When A/C cold then warm happens, it usually means something is causing cooling performance to drop while you’re driving or idling—often presenting as A/C works sometimes. The root cause can vary: refrigerant level issues, a control or electrical problem that affects operation, or a component that isn’t performing consistently (for example, a condition that looks like compressor not engaging at certain times). Because multiple problems can create the same “cold then warm” symptom, the most reliable next step is testing that checks system pressure (PSI), vent temperature, and key components to pinpoint what’s changing when the A/C stops cooling.

Driving with no A/C is usually more of a comfort issue than a safety issue—though it can matter in extreme heat, long drives, or situations where defogging is needed. However, overheating when A/C is on is different: if the temperature gauge rises into the hot zone or you get a temperature warning, turn the A/C off and pull over safely as soon as possible. Continuing to drive while overheating can risk serious engine damage. Once you’re safely stopped, let the engine cool down, and if the overheating returns, it’s best to have the vehicle inspected so the underlying cause can be properly diagnosed.